El otro día leia en internet un artículo sobre el fenomeno que se produce en el Amazonas en Brasil un par de veces al año y me resultaba muy interesante. Os transcribo un texto explicativo con interesante información al respecto. La voz Pororoca es una onomatopeya de la lengua tupí-guaraní pororó-ká, que significa "gran estruendo", y se utiliza para designar un fenómeno similar al que se conoce como macareo en el delta del Orinoco, que se manifiesta como una especie de oleaje ruidoso que recorre el Amazonas aguas arriba a partir de su desembocadura durante decenas de kilómetros. Es un fenómeno mucho más poderoso que el que ocurre en el delta del Orinoco, por la diferencia del caudal entre los dos ríos.
Se produce por la acción de las mareas al penetrar las aguas marinas sobre las fluviales durante el pleamar o flujo. La pororoca es más intensa cuando las aguas del río tienen menor caudal, por lo que las aguas oceánicas del Atlántico pueden penetrar más fácilmente y con mayor velocidad y longitud en los cauces del delta de este río, lo que da origen a una verdadera inundación que llena de agua salada muchas zonas ribereñas.
Hasta a los niños más pequeños les enseñan en los colegios cómo puede llegar a ser devastador este fenómeno. Se ha mitificado a este fenómeno natural como un asesino o monstruo que llega a anegar tierras bajas de las orillas con agua salada. Su sonido, hasta media hora antes de llegar, es el de un oleaje intenso y continuado.
El que este oleaje dure tanto tiempo en avanzar es una consecuencia del enorme caudal del río Amazonas: las aguas de este río (más de 100.000 metros cúbicos por segundo) ocasionan que el agua marina rompa formando olas sobre ellas, pero estas olas se acercan mucho unas a otras por el desplazamiento inferior de las aguas fluviales en sentido inverso, lo que se traduce en una fuerte oposición entre ambas, oposición que es la causante del estruendo. Para que este fenómeno natural se produzca tienen que concurrir varios factores: las fases de Luna llena o Luna nueva, que dan paso a la subida de la mareas más intensas (mareas de zizigia, que son las que se producen cuando los tres astros, es decir, la Tierra, la Luna y el Sol se encuentran alineados), las corrientes marinas y la oposición del océano sobre el río.
Las olas sucesivas de color marrón, que se adentran decenas de kilómetros río arriba y alcanzan en ocasiones hasta cuatro metros de altura en algunos puntos estrechos y encerrados de las orillas y en la misma parte central del cauce (donde la velocidad de las aguas fluviales es mayor), se forman con cierta frecuencia a través del año, aunque la ocurrencia de mareas excepcionalmente "vivas" o intensas es mucho menos frecuente. La altura máxima de la ola se alcanza en el momento de romper al acumularse las aguas superiores del mar sobre las fluviales que las frenan por debajo.
El fenómeno ha venido siendo utilizado por surfistas que vienen de todas partes del mundo para remontar estas olas cuando penetran en el río: no son muy altas, pero pueden penetrar sobre una de ellas y subir aguas arriba de la desembocadura durante casi una hora. Así pues no se trata de un récord de surf en cuanto a la altura de las olas, pero sí en el de duración sobre una única ola. El primer récord mundial de duración sobre una tabla de surf (una "longboard" especial muy liviana) lo obtuvo en el Amazonas en 1999 Picuruta Salazar, surfista brasileño de 43 años de edad en ese momento, con más de media hora de duración sobre la ola rompiente. Y este récord, al parecer, se rompió posteriormente. Un fenomeno de lo más curioso que aunque en menor escala también se produce en San Sebastian cuando las enormes olas de las borrascas del cantabrico penetran rio arriba y los surfers de Donosti pueden llegar a surfear casi 500 mtrs. los que separan el puente del Cursal del puente de hierro. Os dejo un par de videos sobre la pororoca brasileña. Buen fin de semana. Un saludo.
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